First of all, we offer you a wide range of substrates for your favorite plants directly in our webshop and in our local store. Our selected substrates offer ideal conditions for the different requirements of individual plant species.

Briefly summarized:

• Mix the soil so that the plant needs to be watered again after 1 to 2 weeks at the latest.
• Use soil (cocoshum, peat-free soil) and coarser components (perlite, pumice, expanded clay...).
• As far as possible, remove the old soil when repotting.
• Do not repot in winter.
• Use only inorganic substrates in self-watering pots.

The choice of soil is probably the most controversial topic in the plant community. We will stick to the basics and present some simple substrates/mixtures.

As already mentioned on the subject of watering, roots need oxygen in addition to water. In addition, the soil provides the support and stores the nutrients. So, a perfect soil provides both water and air, keeps the plant firmly in the pot and offers it nutrients.

Humus, garden soil or coco hum consists of very fine particles. When they are wet (i.e. freshly watered) the water molecules fill the spaces between the particles! This means that the roots cannot take in oxygen because the soil is completely saturated with water. In nurseries with lots of light and air movement, this may not be a problem, as the soil quickly dries out again and again. But at home, where the soil can stay moist for weeks, this potentially becomes a problem.

Therefore, we mix into the soil proportions of other substances that either have an aerating effect or reduce the water storage capacity of the substrate. These include pine bark (4-8mm), perlite, pumice, lava, expanded clay and other inorganic substances. These additives "store" air or cause the soil to dry out faster.

The mixing ratio is different for each plant and situation. Plants with a lot of water consumption (Calathea, ferns) get more soil (coco-shum, peat-free soil) and plants with medium water consumption (Monstera, Philodendron, most houseplants) get a 50:50 mixture of soil and coarse additives, while plants with a very low water consumption get a mixture with little to no soil. The rule of thumb is that the substrate should dry out within one week, or two at the latest! If it does not, it may lead to a problem.

Not only the mixture, but also the pot size and plant size plays a role. The larger the pot, the longer the soil stays moist. This means that if you use a small pot (with a relatively large plant) you can use a substrate that retains more water. On the other hand, if you use a huge pot (even with a large plant) you should really make sure that the soil can dry out after a few weeks.

Our mixing proposals

50% soil, 50% coarse

This is the mixture that probably fits most plants and situation. Instead of perlite you can also use pumice or lava, but these materials are more expensive and heavier, but prettier. Use such a mixture for philodendron, monstera, ivy, aglaonema, most houseplants with normal water consumption.

25% soil, 75% coarse fractions

This mixture is suitable for succulents and cacti, plants that can store water. They also have a lower water consumption and are particularly sensitive to constantly wet roots. We recommend pumice, lava or Lechuza Pon as coarse proportions. The high weight of these materials keeps the plant in the pot better than the light perlite

100% Sphagnum moss

If you've ever looked into the philodendron or anthurium world, you'll see many who handle sphagnum. That's because sphagnum is incredibly good for propagation or for plants in terrariums. You can also use it for regular houseplants. Depending on the quality of the moss, it is still quite airy even when wet - and stores a lot of water. Nevertheless, you should be careful with it, the constant wetness can also be harmful. From our point of view, you should not repot plants from soil into sphagnum, but only continue to cultivate plants that you got or propagated in moss. In a greenhouse or terrarium pure sphagnum makes more sense than in the room, in our opinion.

What is the best way to repot?

Old substrate degrades. It decays, molds and is broken down by microorganisms. Therefore, we see it useful to remove the old soil when repotting. This does not have to be perfect (so as not to damage the roots too much). Use your fingers to loosen the pot ball a bit and remove the soil by shaking it gently and loosening it further. In the new (or the same) pot, keep the plant suspended as it should be at the end and fill the pot with the new substrate. Make sure that the roots are well distributed in the pot and not squeezed together. Water the repotted plant well and do not place it in direct sun to avoid extreme evaporation. After about a week it should be accustomed to the new soil.

When should I repot?

Repotting means stress for the plant, especially if you remove the old soil. Therefore, repot rather in the growing season, that is, not in the winter. This way the plant can recover faster and is in a stronger condition, both before and after. If you have growing lights, you can repot at any time.

What about fertilizer?

Coco hum, bark, perlite, pumice, etc. do not naturally contain nutrients for the plants. But this is not a problem if you fertilize. More about this in the topic "Fertilization".

What about self-watering systems?

In self-watering systems (whether by wick or contact with water), the soil always remains moist due to the water reservoir. This is a problem because it makes the soil decompose faster (organic matter degrades faster in a moist environment), plus the roots don't get oxygen well.

Therefore, we recommend only purely inorganic coarse substrates that allow enough air exchange even when completely saturated with water. On the German market there are hydroponics with expanded clay as well as the Lechuza™ system.

What about epiphytes?

Epiphytes are plants that grow on trees in the rainforest. Their roots grow along mosses and tree branches, and they suck up water that flows down the tree. Epiphytes usually have thicker, fleshy roots that can store water (think of the typical Phalaenopsis orchid). There are also few nutrients on the tree, the plant must rely on excrement from animals.

For us, this means the following: Epiphytes need a very airy soil and little fertilizer. It is best to use an orchid soil mix, and make sure it is of good quality. Many mixes are too fine. Pure sphagnum moss will also work, but it is too wet for some plants.

Philodendron are only partial epiphytes. They do climb and root up trees, however they often root and start in the ground. Philodendrons can therefore be kept in normal houseplant soil. Anthuriums, on the other hand, are epiphytes and should always get a very airy substrate.